Fog Season: Color or Monochrome? Take 3.

Continuing with the subject of color or monochrome for images taken in the fog, I’ll look at two more pairs of images and then come to some conclusions.

(Click on any image to expand; use arrow keys to navigate among images.)

The first image was captured in fairly heavy fog and not long after sunrise.  Without doubt, I much prefer the color version.  Like our previous images, differential color saturation enhances depth.  Colors in the nearest parts of the bluff are lightly saturated while color saturation decreases as the bluff recedes into the fog.  Further, the blue cast (most evident in the sky) enhances the cold mood of the fog.  The monochrome version of this image lacks both of these features.

The image of Del Mar Point was captured on a day with much lighter fog.  I prefer the monochrome version of this image.  With light fog, it’s hard to detect the differential color saturation and thus the color does not add to depth of the image.  The foreground elements are quite close to the camera and saturation is not the least reduced by the fog.  The monochrome version tends to abstract the image and I think that adds to the mood of (light) fog.

When I started this investigation of images of fog, I expected that conversion to monochrome would be a “no brainer.”  Much to my surprise, I have tended to prefer the color versions where light color saturation in the foreground gives way to even less saturation in the background, enhancing depth.

Like most photographers, I tend to learn by doing.  The advent of digital photography has dramatically shortened the learning feedback loop while enabling experiments that would have been much more difficult to do with film.  I now plan to investigate the question of color versus monochrome in images of another favorite subject: eroding sandstone.

 

Fog Season: Color or Monochrome? Take 2.

My last post looked at color and monochrome versions of an image taken at the ocean bluff in the morning fog.  I tentatively concluded, to my surprise, that I preferred the color version even though the subject is nearly monochrome.  I found that color, slightly saturated in the foreground and less so in the background (viewed through the fog), tended to enhance the sense of depth in the image.

Here are color and black and white versions of a second image.

(Click on either image to expand.  Use arrow keys to navigate between images.)

I’m having a hard time deciding which version I prefer.  The sweeping view of the bluff, clearly receding into the fog, already imparts a strong sense of depth in the image.  The differential saturation of the colors, near versus far, does not seem to add as much as it did in the image I posted last week.  Too, the abstraction of black and white tends to add to the sense of mystery in the image, making us wonder even more what is hiding in the fog.  Guess I will need to live with both images for a while before I can decide.

What do you think?

Fog Season: Color or Monochrome?

At last some good ground fog!  Now, more decisions.

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Fog season was late this year but did finally start about a month ago.  We have had nearly continuous low overcast but only a small number of days of actual ground fog.  The low overcast has tended to persist overnight, limiting radiational cooling of the land and keeping temperatures just a bit too warm for fog at ground level.  Yesterday, the overcast cleared late in the afternoon and remained clear past sunset; this allowed just enough cooling to produce fog at ground level this morning.

Here is one of the images I captured today.  Now for decisions.  With relatively heavy fog, colors tend to be very muted and the landscape seems almost monochromatic to the eye.  I expected this image would be a natural for conversion to monochrome (aka “Black & White”).  I’m not so sure that is the case.

My preference is tending toward the color version.  Depth is implied in this image by the progression of three arms of the bluff.  Detail is evident in the foreground arm while the mid-ground and background arms progressively disappear into the fog.  I think that the muted colors on the foreground arm tend to make the foreground more notable and the others, with colors progressively swamped out by fog, seem recede further in the background.  That is, color by its presence in the foreground and absence in the background is subtly increasing depth to the image.

I’d like to hear about your preference and thoughts and welcome your comments below.

Gualala Arts May Show 2012

Gualala Arts has just announced its intent to offer the May Show again in 2012.  First appearing in 2010, the May Show is a national show with a top-notch juror.  The caliber of work in the show has been excellent in the show’s first two years.  The call for entry should be available shortly.  If the schedule is similar to 2011, entries will be due in late-January 2012.  Start planning now and watch the Gualala Arts website for the call for entry.

Craft: Image Sharpness & Shooting Technique

Things I’ve Learned About the Craft of Photography: Image Sharpness & Shooting Technique

This is the first of a series of posts through which I hope to share some of the things I’ve learned about the craft of landscape photography with digital SLR cameras.  Two terms are operative.  First is craft which refers to techniques and approaches employed to produce an image (rather than the aesthetic questions of what to capture and express in the image).  Second is landscape which is wholly different from other types of photography (photo journalism, wedding or portrait photography, etc.) in terms of subject (inanimate), lighting (generally the sun), depth of field (generally to be maximized) and other considerations.

From the perspective of craft and like most landscape photographers, I want to produce images that are well-composed, well-lighted, critically focused, and sharp.  While there are technical definitions of sharpness, in my mind maximizing the sharpness in an image enables me to reproduce much more of the fine details and texture in the subject.  Sharp images catch the eye and the sharpness is apparent even in small prints or screen images.  You don’t need esoteric measures to know the image is sharp.

The sharpness of an image is fully determined by the time the shutter closes.  I believe it is basically determined by two factors: i) shooting technique and ii) lens aperture choice.  I will talk about lens aperture choice and diffraction in a later post.  Suffice it to say that careful shooting technique with an average lens produces an image that is noticeably sharper than one shot with the finest lens but without regard to technique.

Careful technique starts with use of a tripod.  Sharpness will be lost if the camera and lens are not held absolutely steady during exposure.  No amount of ‘vibration reduction’ or ‘optical image stabilization’ in lens or camera body will beat the use of a rock solid tripod.

Through trial and error (common among photographers when it comes to tripods), I have learned to use the most rugged tripod that I can carry into a shooting location.  Most of the time this means I use a Gitzo series 3 tripod, meant to support many times the weight of the gear I have mounted on it.

The camera and lens need to be solidly attached to the tripod.  I have adopted the Really Right Stuff BH-55 ball head as my standard.  The 55 mm (about 2.16 inch) diameter ball is again intended to support many times the weight I place on it.  I use Really Right Stuff L-brackets designed specifically for the camera models I use.  In addition to being solid, the dovetail mounting system makes for rapid camera mounting and change of perspective (switching from landscape to portrait mode).

Single Lens Reflex cameras are great: what you see in the viewfinder is (almost) what the sensor is going to see at exposure time.  Pressing the shutter release on the camera does two things: 1) raises the reflex mirror to clear the optical path and 2) opens and closes the shutter.  The drawback of the SLR is that quickly raising the mirror invariably means the mirror will slap against the pentaprism housing.  This slap induces vibrations in the camera body that persist for many, many tens of milliseconds before they damp out.

I always use the mirror lock-up function on my camera (and would not own a camera that does not have mirror lock-up).  An exposure requires two steps: the first actuation of the shutter release raises the mirror while the second actuation fires the shutter and allows the mirror to return to the down position.  Have the patience to wait three to five seconds between raising the mirror and firing the shutter and you will be rewarded with noticeably sharper images!

Keep your hands off the camera!  No matter how steady you think you are and no matter how carefully you press the shutter button, you are going to rock the camera.  Use a remote shutter release.

Finally, wind will vibrate even the most rugged tripod and camera.  Try to avoid shooting in really windy conditions.  If you must, try adding some weight to the tripod (partially suspend your camera bag) and by all means remove the neck strap (aka wind sail) from the camera.

What if the shooting location is a long hike from the car or you are traveling by air and you are not able to carry a large, heavy tripod?  Do the next best thing and carry a smaller, lighter but well constructed tripod.  I have many sharp images shot with a 200 mm focal length lens mounted on a Gitzo series 1 tripod.  To gain stability, I carry a one kilogram (two-pound) bean bag, hang it from the center post of the tripod and use extra care in my technique.

With digital photography and tools like Photoshop, we have the ability to examine our images in fine detail (at 100% where camera pixels and computer display pixels are mapped one-to-one).  I urge you to run a controlled experiment.  Start with an image that uses none of the technique I’ve outlined and then take a series of images adding successive levels of care.  Look carefully at the images – you will quickly be convinced that shooting technique really does matter.

Aside from significantly improving sharpness, the techniques I’ve talked about here all slow down the process of shooting.  And that is a good thing.  Our best landscape photographers, to a person, all tell us that slowing down brings a much more contemplative approach to photography, producing images that are much more compelling and evocative.

Fog Season: Black & White Conversion

Field_20110706_8421While fog occurs throughout the year, I think of the period from mid-June to mid-August as “fog season” in coastal Sonoma County.  Fog is both more frequent and heavier than at other times of the year.  It’s a great time to be out with the camera!  Fog imparts an especially quiet mood on the landscape, helps to isolate subjects from backgrounds, and helps to imply infinity (as subjects disappear into the fog). I plan to make an extra effort this year to be out in the landscape when morning fog appears.

Images captured in the fog can be nearly monochromatic and thus great candidates for conversion to black and white.  One of my goals for the year has been to learn more about black and white conversion.  I think “fog season” may be just the motivation I need to give black and white a try.

This image was captured at minus tide at Ohlson Beach at The Sea Ranch last Wednesday.  With a very thick fog, wet sand and wet sandstone, the source image is nearly monochromatic.  I did the conversion to B&W in Lightroom V3 and used Photoshop to further optimize the image — largely to bring out some of the texture and glow in the sandstone.

While I think conversion of this image is reasonably successful, I am also finding that good conversion is a challenge with many images.  The best guidance I have found so far basically boils down to “try multiple approaches.”  Well, yes, but there has to be better guidance than that! A lot to learn and I will plan to post more as I progress.

New Folio: Coast Redwoods

Field_20110610_8043Coast Redwoods today grow only in a narrow band along the coast from central California northward to very southern Oregon.  The tallest examples of the redwoods grow to over 350 feet and are the world’s tallest trees.  Absorbing much of their water supply directly through their needles, these trees thrive on the fog that is prevalent along the North Coast.

In early June, I spent time in the Redwood National and State Parks in Humboldt and Del Norte counties — the very northwest corner of California.   Photographing these giants is a real challenge.  Rather than trying to capture the full height of these trees, I concentrated on trying to capture a sense of the solitude in the foggy forests and the presence of these giants.

My redwoods folio can be found in Gallery One.  Please take a look and let me know what you think.

Looking at Water Show

I’m pleased to report that my image “Cascading Stream,” shown here, has been accepted in the “Looking at Water Show.”  This show, curated by Claudia Chapline and Etta Deikman, will be held at the Marin Art & Garden Center, 30 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, San Anselmo, California.  The show will open on August 14 with a reception from 2:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m. and will run through September 3.  This show is the third in a series of exhibits entitled “A Season of Water.”

Claudia Chapline is the founder and board president of Art at the Cheese Factory.  Learn more about Art at the Cheese Factory at Claudia’s blog.

As usual, click on any image to expand it to full size.

May Show at Gualala Arts

Field_20101106_5814The second annual “May Show” at Gualala Arts opened on May 6 and will be on display through Memorial Day, May 30.  I was fortunate to have the two images shown here selected for the juried show.  You can see prints of these images and lots of good work from artists both local and from across the country at Gualala Arts, 46501 Gualala Road, Gualala, California.

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New Website Launched

Field_20100625_9197I have just launched a new website.  My new site, at the same address www.edgelightimages.com, is built on the WordPress 3.1 platform and is designed to be both more dynamic and interactive than my original website.

It had been nearly a year since I updated my old, very static website.  The new site has a focus on newer images, especially work that I’ve done over the last 12 – 24 months.  During this period, I believe my work has evolved and matured significantly.  I hope you will enjoy seeing it.

At launch, the new site concentrates on images from the North Coast of California.  This is the focus of my work and therefore I think the appropriate focus of my website.

In addition to more frequent posting of new images, the new site invites your comments and feedback on my work.  You can make public comments (will appear on the site) or send private comments via e-mail.

I plan to use the site’s blog to post some of my learnings about photography from time to time.

I hope you will be able to stop by the site and take a look.  If you enjoy the images you see, please stay in touch by returning frequently.  Or, use the Contact page to subscribe to my RSS feed or periodic e-mail.